Why I Went Natural...

Why did I go natural?

The truth? It kind of just happened! Well, not really.

Let me start from the beginning. I was natural from birth to age 16, at which point my mom and I decided that it should not hurt me to get a relaxer. At the time I was very active in cheerleading/dance and the constant heat styling had started to break and thin my hair. So then the journey began.

I could give you the lowdown about all the popular salon-quality perms but I won’t. Things I worried about: overprocessing, underprocessing, chemical burns (every month), breakage, split-ends (many times the stylist had to cut 1.5in of hair to prevent breakage).



What I learned from getting chemical relaxers: Relaxers (perms) are not for everyone! My scalp and hair are unique.

I was also tired of fighting with salon stylists about what was best for my hair. I always tried to explain to them that I knew more about my hair than they did because I had been working with it my whole life! And many times they insisted on doing something that caused my hair to fall out! I’m like, “This is MY hair!”

So, what did I do? With not enough courage to chop it off and go natural, I started braiding and weaving more and more, until I looked up and I had worn my hair in braid extensions or sew-ins for the majority of 18mos. I took the sew-in down in February of 2011 and I had a full head of natural hair! I said to myself, “Great! I’ve always wanted to go natural! Hallelujah! I’m going to make this work and I don’t care who doesn’t like it!” And so it was.

Mo'Hair - My Homemade Natural Haircare Videos [Playlist]


The four main reasons why I went natural: Health, Beauty, Cultural Pride, and Financial Expense

Health

1.) Some people have sensitive skin and/or allergies. I am one of those people.
2.) I have become increasingly concerned about the chemicals that I expose myself to. 3.) Chemical burns from relaxers were a very common occurrence.
4.) There was always something about the smell of a relaxer and hair dyes that turned me off. I said to myself every time, “OMG, what am I putting in my hair? On my skin? And I hope that after years of using it, it doesn’t kill me.
5.) I was told that my hair falling out and/or breaking was a sign of poor health, a hormonal imbalance, or stress. So then a healthy head of hair must be a sign of optimum health. I sought out to find the truth.

Beauty

I have always loved my natural hair and how soft it felt. I look at afro puffs and I see beauty. It draws me in.

I like the way my natural hair feels, looks, and smells. I could lie on it like a pillow for days and days! In between straightenings, I enjoyed rubbing my face with it and smelling it (a habit which really annoyed my mother).

I’m a hair fanatic, period. I like hair types 1-4, though. Hair is hair. *shrugs*

Cultural Pride

There is a lot of pressure for people of color to conform to Eurocentric standards of beauty, labeling Eurocentric as normal and/or right while labeling Afro-centric as abnormal and/or wrong. To many people in our Western culture, Afro-textured natural hair is less desirable than straight hair. Yet for most people of African descent, Afro-textured hair is what they were born with!

Since I’ve learned how to do my own braid extensions, I think I could be more successful at relaxing this time around. However, I will not relax my hair because wearing my natural hair shows cultural pride. It's sad that some people feel threatened by me being comfortable in my own skin. "Oh, you’re comfortable being dark-skinned?" "Oh, you’re comfortable having nappy hair?" My answer: "Well, isn’t that the way God made me?" What is wrong with being proud of who I am, my heritage, and my African ancestry? Honestly, some women look at me as if I am an atheist or something because I’ve said “No” to ever getting a perm again. You know what? They will survive. This is my life, not theirs.

Financial Expense

Hair is expensive! Salon visits, products...



1.) Relaxers:

Week 1 $70.00 (the relaxer) + $20.00 (hair-cut or trimming ends to prevent splitting)
Week 2 $50.00 (wash and set)
Week 3 $50.00 (wash and set)
Week 4 $50.00 (wash and set)
Week 5 $50.00 (wash and set)
Week 6 $50.00 (wash and set)
Week 7 $50.00 (wash and set)
Total: $420.00/2 = $210/mo.

Week 8 Cycle starts over with a relaxer on natural roots

2.) Hair Weaving:

Braid Extensions.
(Senegalese Twists, Individuals, Micro Braids, Tree Braids)
Price - If done by a licensed stylist, these cost usually $125.00 - $200.00. If done by an unlicensed stylist in their home, the cost is about $60 - $125.00. The braiding hair ranges in prices depending on whether it is synthetic, human, synthetic/human blend, imported, etc. $2.00 – $100.00+ per bag.
Also, time is a factor. It takes 8-10 hrs for 1 experienced stylist to complete.
Wear Time - The style lasts 6wks – 3mos, although it’s recommended for no more than 2mos.
Maintenance - About halfway, 3-4wks in, you may have to re-do the edges to keep the style looking fresh. (I wash my hair and scalp weekly nowadays instead of once every two weeks.)
Risks - Can pull hair out if done too tightly or left in too long.

Sew-Ins.
Price - The average cost for a licensed stylist is $150.00 - $200.00. The hair (on tracks) ranges in prices depending on synthetic, human, synthetic/human blend, imported, etc.
Wear Time - The style lasts 6wks – 3mos, although it’s recommended for no more than 2mos.
Maintenance - After washing, it is best to sit under a hair dryer for 30min -1hr to make sure the roots (which are in cornrows) get dry. Some women even pay for salon visits to maintain their sew-in weekly. Also, when the roots begin to grow out, they may go in to get it tightened.
Risks - Can pull hair out if done too tightly or left in too long. It is also hard to do scalp treatments with a sew-in. (I soak instead.)

Glued-in tracks.
Price - $50.00 - $70.00
Wear Time - The style lasts no more than 2wks.
Risks - Bonding glue has chemicals and may take your hair out when trying to remove.

Resources For Natural Haircare

www.curlynikki.com

www.hairlista.com

www.nappturality.com

www.thirstyroots.com

Products/Tutorials/Other Resources

HairRules

Ouidad

Miss Jessie’s

Carol’s Daughter

Mizani

Original Moxie

As I Am Naturally

Oyin Handmade

Luv Naturals

Sisters of Isis

Best of: Natural Haircare Videos

My Natural Haircare Regimen

Natural Haircare Regimen - Clean and Condition


So, I decided to go natural...

I don't plan on washing my naturally nappy hair but once every 2wks... But when I do, this is the regimen that I will follow. The products listed are ones that I already had around the house.




1. Scalp Treatment (20 mins)

Product: Head & Shoulders (pyrithione zinc) is anti-fungal and anti-bacterial, yet drying to hair.



Do this step before shampooing (your scalp should be dry). Pour shampoo onto a paper plate. Part hair and apply shampoo directly to the scalp and hair roots (similar to the way you apply a relaxer). Massage shampoo into scalp with fingertips.



2. Sanitize kitchen sink and countertop.

Products: Household Cleaner w/bleach; liquid anti-bacterial soap



Spray cleaner. Let sit 5 min. Add few drops of liquid soap. Wipe with wet towel then rinse well.

3. Shampoo hair. (15min)

Products: Head & Shoulders Shampoo, Nexxus Therappe Shampoo (great for relaxed hair), Optimum Oil Therapy Ultimate Recovery Shampoo (great for natural kinky hair)



a. Rinse hair under faucet then fill sink with water and soak hair, gently massaging scalp underwater.

b. 1st lather: Apply palm-sized amount of Nexxus shampoo to hair. Massage hair into scalp with palms and fingers. Rinse and soak.

c. 2nd lather: Apply palm-sized amount of Optimum Oil Therapy shampoo to hair. Lather well by massaging scalp for 3mins, squeezing out the excess suds.

d. Let shampoo sit 5mins. Add a little more Head & Shoulders shampoo.

e. Rinse and soak until all shampoo is removed. Pat dry with towel.



4. Sanitize combs and brushes you’ve been using.

Fill sink with hot soapy water and shampoo. Allow combs and brushes to soak at least 5mins or until you’re ready to use the sink again.




5. Deep Condition (1hr)

Products: Optimum Oil Therapy Ultimate Recovery Conditioner; Keracare Essential Oils; shower cap



a. Apply conditioner to hair one section at a time (may be as many as 20 sections). You can use clips, rubber bands, or just wing it with your fingers.

b. Add nickel-sized amount of essential oil to your palm. Rub your hands together then apply to your hair (4-6 sections).

c. Using your wide tooth comb, partially detangle hair (20+ sections). Start at the root and gently pull through about half-way. Do this all over your head. Repeat process again starting at the ends and working your way back up to the root (your hair will be softer this time). Note: You’re not trying to get it straight. You just want to break up large knots and spread the conditioner.

d. Apply nickel sized amount of oil to palm, rub hands together, and apply to hair.

e. Place shower cap on. Sit under dryer for 10-15mins (on Hi setting, I only do 10min). Allow your head to cool off at least 15 mins before you remove the shower cap.

f. Rinse and soak with warm water. While still standing over the sink, add a palm sized amount of the Optimum Oil Therapy conditioner to your wet hair, then rinse and soak again until ALL conditioner has been removed from your hair and scalp.

g.Partially towel dry.



6. Detangle

Products: IC Leave-In Conditioner; Keracare Essential Oils

Apply generous amount of leave-in conditioner to hair. Using wide tooth comb, gently detangle small sections of hair. Add nickle-sized amount to 4 sections hair.








My Two-Strand Twist Outs


Stage 1 - Twists

Products: Blue Magic Coconut Oil Conditioner, Smooth N Shine Curling Mousse, Jamaican Mango & Lime BTR(braid, twist, remover) by Rasta Locks & Twists, wide tooth comb, detangling brush

Pour Mousse and BTR onto paper plate (they will eventually run together).



a. Part hair into 1 inch square.

b. With 2 fingers, apply small amount of Blue Magic to section.

c. Then wet fingers in Mousse/BTR and apply to section.

d. Separate section into two parts at the root then begin tightly twisting the two strands around each other.

e. Continue twisting all the wat to the tips. Make sure all the hair is wet with the mousse/btr (twist and grab/pull)




Repeat this until all of your hair is twisted.


Stage 2 - Unraveled twists

Apply thin layer of Blue Magic to your fingers. Gently rub along twist. Then grab twist at the root and slowly pull twist apart.



Style n go!

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